Tipping extra is more important than ever, but many operators are looking towards an even bigger picture.
. “It’s fundamentally a structure that came around because of slavery," she says, referring to the practice's troubled history. After the Civil War, many employers used tipping as a way to avoid actually paying wages to formerly enslaved hospitality workers. Mix says that in the earliest weeks of the pandemic, when Leyenda was open for takeout cocktails only, patrons were tipping exorbitantly, and even calling to order and pay for drinks—and tips—for staffers to enjoy in their stead.
With takeout in particular, Mix suspects that many patrons feel that because they aren’t sitting down and spending time in an establishment, their interaction with their servers is more transactional and less of an actual relationship, which is critical to the tipping construct. “You should be realizing that you’re basically tipping an employee who hasn't gotten paid in many months.
Mix says that a 20% tip on every order—whether it’s a single frozen margarita or a full meal, enjoyed outdoors, in your living room, or on your walk home—is still absolutely necessary to support hospitality employers who have taken a major financial hit during the last few months of restaurant closures. Beyond that minimum, it’s up to customers to do the math and be as generous as they’re able.
As opposed to relying on customer generosity alone to make up for lost wages, Mix says she would strongly prefer to add a fixed fee to every bill, to be split amongst back-of-house and front-of-house employees. Unfortunately, New York City restaurants are currently forbidden from doing so, a pre-COVID restriction that organizations like the Independent Restaurant Coalition are working to change.
“It’s a conversation we’d love to have, doing away with tipping,” Lynch says. Doing so means grappling with a number of challenges, like explaining increased menu costs to guests., moving beyond the practice of gratuities in favor of a more equitable model has new urgency. “The way we can change it is to get together as an industry, because we’re all saying the same things.
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