U.S. dietary guidelines may soon include advice about ultra-processed foods. But no one knows how to define them, or what they do to health.
essica Wilson is passionate about the pupusas from Costco. Not just because they’re tasty, but also because they’ve helped the California-based registered dietitian fight back against the mounting war on
So she did her own experiment. Like van Tulleken, Wilson for a month got 80% of her daily calories from highly processed foods,. She swapped her morning eggs for soy chorizo and replaced her thrown-together lunches—sometimes as simple as beans with avocado and hot sauce—with Trader Joe’s ready-to-eat tamales. She snacked on cashew-milk yogurt with jam. For dinner she’d have one of her beloved Costco pupusas, or maybe chicken sausage with veggies and Tater-Tots.
The food industry, predictably, maintains that ultra-processed foods have been unfairly demonized and can be part of a healthy diet. Likely sensing a threat to their bottom line, large food companies have. Wilson has endured plenty of criticism for her position, which is not popular among the nutrition-science establishment. But she stands by it.
The two diets were designed to be equivalent in calories, sugar, salt, and macronutrients, but people could eat as much or as little as they wanted at mealtimes. On the ultra-processed diet, people ate more and gained weight. Meanwhile, on the minimally processed one, they lost weight, had positive hormonal changes, and saw markers of inflammation drop.
Even with questions outstanding, we already know that some ultra-processed foods are harmful, says Kendra Chow, a registered dietitian and policy and public affairs manager at the nonprofit World Cancer Research Fund International. Stereotypical “junk foods” that are high in salt, sugar, or saturated fat—things like chips, candy, and hot dogs—have long been linked to health problems likeand heart disease.
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