I never planned to make the snack my Proustian madeleine. But the crisis has me reaching for the foods of my childhood, says columnist Eleanor Margolis
If Wotsits still exist 30 years from now, I may eat one and be transported back to 2020. The moment that faux cheese umami hits my tongue, and I can feel my pupils dilate on reaching the gastronomic Shangri-La referred to by Guy Fieri as “flavour town”, I’ll fall down a rabbit hole of Zoom quizzes, hand sanitiser and unintelligible government briefings.
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