The best way to transform the liquid in a can of chickpeas (aquafaba!) into a stable meringue.
Aquafaba, or the liquid that’s in a can of beans, is one of the most exciting cooking “discoveries” in recent memory. Not only was it found to be a superior vegan substitute for eggs than what had been commercially available; it was, experimenting in their kitchens to find something that could approximate the way egg whites behave in delicate desserts like meringues.
I knew that in an egg-based meringue, proteins like albumin are denatured using a combination of mechanical stress and a lower pH as the mixture is vigorously aerated to create a foam. It seemed logical that the proteins in aquafaba would behave in the same way as the proteins in egg whites in the presence of cream of tartar.
The foams prepared from each experiment were left to sit in order to gauge how long they could last without falling apart. Another set of foams were baked to see how they performed when heated and to gauge how well they could hold their structure in meringue cookies. It turns out that aquafaba with kombu can make a very stable meringue, even in the absence of cream of tartar. The reason for this is that kombu contains carrageenan, a carbohydrate that is commonly used as a food additive because it acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer.
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